Tuesday, October 28, 2008

Speaking of the election...

I ran across this wonderful comment by David Sedaris in last week's New Yorker in a piece about undecided voters:
To put them in perspective, I think of being on an airplane. The flight attendant comes down the aisle with her food cart and, eventually, parks it beside my seat. “Can I interest you in the chicken?” she asks. “Or would you prefer the platter of shit with bits of broken glass in it?”

To be undecided in this election is to pause for a moment and then ask how the chicken is cooked.

I mean, really, what’s to be confused about?

So what do you say about the Philippines?...

(I've added all the photos that I think I'm going to add. Scroll down to see them all.)

At the end of the trip Ben told me that a Filipino would be asking me "So what do you have to say about the Philippines?" (I thing those are the exact words - maybe he'll correct me.)

I gave him a lame answer like "I've just been here a few days and I haven't seen enough to draw any meaningful conclusions."

Ben wouldn't let me off the hook: "That's not enough. They'd want a better answer."

So here are a couple of observations:

- The land is beautiful and the people are gentle and friendly.
- I don't know when I've seen such chaotic traffic. Roads are packed with jeepneys, tricycles (motor scooters with a sidecar), motorbikes, bicycles, buses, and even a few cars. Everyone turns any direction at any time, and pass on the left or right. Lanes are an ideal that nobody pays attention to.
- Exhaust fumes are thick on the major roads.
- In spite of complete chaos on the roads I never saw anyone exhibit anything close to road rage. In fact Ben told me that expressing anger in any form was frowned on.
- A good way to stop a conversation is to explain that you are divorced.
- They have the worst bread I've ever eaten.

There are probably more, but that's a good start and after 3 days back I'm still feeling jet lag.

Besides - it is time to get back to the election...

Monday, October 27, 2008

Trip details

I started a big honking post with a day-by-day account of my trip, but it got unwieldy. So I'm going to back date each day's entries and repopulate the blog. They'll appear as I finish them, in chronological order, interspersed with the original status reports. If you're tracking this with a reader you'll get notices when new posts go up. Otherwise you'll have to keep scrolling down to check for new additions.

Sunday, October 26, 2008

Twenty-seven hours...

My return flights were on time and uneventful. There is something disorienting about waking up in Manila and going to bed in Goshen, but it works.

I took this picture during the stopover in Hong Kong for Yogabean. Looks like I need to move my back foot back a little more.


Even with a four hour layover in Hong Kong and a three hour layover in Chicago, the longest delay seemed to be the seven minute wait inside the plane on the tarmac in South Bend waiting for them to get our luggage off so we could deplane.

Anyhow I'm back. I had a good night's sleep, followed by my first cup of coffee in nearly three weeks. I have a load of laundry in the machine and I'm raring to go. I'm sure this will pass as the day progresses.

I'm going to start downloading pictures - maybe I'll get some posted here later today.

Friday, October 24, 2008

On my way ---- almost...

Depending on when you count I start home tomorrow at 6:30am, or I started on Wednesday when we boarded the van for Puerto Princesa. I prefer to think I start home tomorrow.

Hiked in a bonafide jungle yesterday with birds making sounds that sent shivers down your back. Today was a guided paddle up a mangrove forest preserve. Saw wild orchids in both places, but no blooms.

We arrived back in Manila an hour ago (7:30pm local time). Ben picked up his absentee ballot and I'm violating PC rules by using a computer in the volunteer library.

My only anxiety is getting to the airport in time to catch my flight. Shouldn't be a problem since we decided to stay in Manila overnight instead of going back to B's apartment 90 minutes plus from the airport with no jeepney or cab available when I would need it.

I won't check email or post again until I'm home.

Thursday and Friday, Oct 23 & 24 - Sabang...

We hopped on the 7am Jeepney to Sabang (saa bong) Thursday morning. This trip was only 2 1/2 hours long, but plenty of bumps and bounces. Sabong is next to a major national park.

On arrival we checked into the St. Mary's Resort. We have a tiny cottage up on stilts. The floor is bamboo and the walls are these woven leaves - maybe palm. Thatched roof.

After a quick lunch we picked up a permit and hiked the Monkey Trail to the entry to the Underground River.


The Monkey Trail is about 4km long, and follows the shoreline, but goes up and down over 2 or 3 ridges. This is incredibly steep terrain, and the Monkey Trail is well developed with steps for the steepest parts. We had just climbed the steps to the right. Hard work!



We came on these monkeys near the entry to the park.


And a friendly neighborhood lizard...

At the start of the underground river tour:

The underground river tour mostly consisted of "And on your right you'll see the Virgin Mary, and around the next corner we'll see the three wise men." I forget what we were looking at here.

Wednesday, October 22, 2008

Wednesday, Oct 22 - Back to Puerto...

We caught the 7am air conditioned van back to Puerto Princesa. I was in the very back seat, bouncing with every chuck hole. Seven hours.

We stayed at Bwanda Pension and art house, a funky little hostel with a nice veranda and a yogic atmosphere. We went out to dinner with the PC Vols again, and ended up at a videoke bar afterwards. Ben joined in, and I screwed up my courage to try it but by the time I got my request in other tables had control of the mike and we had to go.

Tuesday, October 21, 2008

Monday and Tuesday, Oct 20 & 21 - Island hopping

There are dozens of islands in the immediate area around El Nido. The islands have dramatic vertical rock cliffs, and are surrounded by clear blue water and choral reefs. Most have at least one sloping beach where you can easily land a boat.

Island hopping means you hire a boat like the one below. (Basically it is a big wooden canoe with a very narrow keel and outriggers. The narrow keel makes it very efficient in the water, the outriggers make it stable, and the whole thing can operate in both shallow and deep water.) There are lagoons and hidden beaches to explore.

We stopped and snorkled at several islands and saw some amazing sea life, including lots of varieties of coral and way more fish than I imagined possible. We also saw a modest-sized sea turtle and a flounder. At one point I discovered that the fish were as interested in me as I were in them. I could float suspended at the surface and be swarmed by a wide variety. They seemed very curious about what I was.

Another high point was the glimpse of the manta ray that we caught. We were in the boat out in open water when the guide suddenly slowed and pointed out an enormous white speckled creature about 20' to one side. Ben wanted to get in the water but the guide wouldn't let him: "There are sharks out here."

One of the things I learned is that these fish are exported around the world for exotic aquariums and high end restaurants. What you don't know is how they catch them. The most common method is cyanide poisoning. You can read more about it here and here.

Perhaps ironically, at lunch your guide grills fresh fish over an open fire, and serves it with rice and some kind of cole slaw or similar vegetable. Here is our cook/guide at work. I hope this is hook or net caught.






Sunday, October 19, 2008

Sunday, Oct 19 - Travel to El Nido

We got up and underestimated how long it would take to get to the bus depot, but it didn't matter that we were five minutes late: the bus left at 8:30. It took a while to figure this out - and then more time to come up with an alternate plan.

Someone suggested we should try to catch a van to Roxas, a town about one third of the way to El Nido. There was a good chance, our contact said, that we could catch up with the bus. We asked around, found a van that was leaving in a few minutes AND had enough room to stuff us in. Actually I think adding us reduced the amount of bouncing around inside for the other travelers.

I didn't really think we'd catch up with the first bus. We were more than an hour behind it, and it was such a long shot. But when we pulled into Roxas 2 hours later, there was our bus - just about to leave after a lunch break. The only problem: it was packed full. But if you'd like to ride on top, you're welcome to.

Are you kidding?

The bus already had 4 or 5 people on top wedged into some bamboo living room furniture strapped to the roof racks or sitting on top of all the baggage tied down. We crawled up and joined them.

For a while it was beautiful: sun shining, wind blowing. Just duck those tree branches and power lines!

Then we got into mountains and it started raining. The first couple were just showers, but about the 4th rain we had a major downpour. A cats and dogs kind of downpour. Of course by this time we were driving mostly on a dirt road. And of course rain means the road gets muddy and makes the chuckholes worse. A couple hours later we pulled into TayTay. Some people got off so we went below and spent the last couple hours like normal people.

We arrived a little before sunset, got to our cabin and settled in in time to watch the sunset before going out for supper with a guy from Minnesota that we met on the bus.

Saturday, October 18, 2008

Saturday, Oct 18 - Travel to Palawan

Ben had purchased tickets for a 2:30 flight. We took our time getting going in the morning, traveling by jeepney in time to catch a 2:30 flight to Puerto Princesa. Over dinner with the Peace Corps volunteers stationed in the area we asked for suggestions on how we should use our time. They recommended two sites in the Northern part of the island: El Nido (an 7 hour bus ride) and Sabang (2 hours). They told us there was a bus to El Nido every day at 7, 9 and 11am. We decided to catch the 9am and called it a night.

Friday, October 17, 2008

Friday, Oct 17 - Visit to Das Marinas Regional High School

Ben had to teach some classes the Friday morning, so in the morning we walked the half mile to his school. Here is the view outside his apartment:



Philippines does not have a middle school so high school is grades 7 - 10. There are 9000 kids on this campus, which is spread out over several acres. Buildings are arranged around courtyards, with windows wide open to the common areas. The day we were there was a little looser than normal; classes were not really in session all of the time.

I got to meet Ben's co-teachers and supervisor, and got some pictures of some of them. Here he is with some of his co-teachers.

I think he said the English Department has 29 teachers. Curiously, there is a kind of work-to-rule mindset. By mid-afternoon several teachers were back in their prep area, having long naps on benches. Only a few had classes, and they had to get their 8 hours in for the day. Odd.

My presence gave Ben an acceptable reason to skip out early, so after he met with a couple of classes and his Book Lover's Club we took a bus up to Tiegatay (I may not have the right spelling) which is on the edge of a crater lake in an old volcano.





Later in the evening, Ben's supervisor took us out for dinner with her family to a nice restaurant. She was a gracious host.


We returned to find Ben's neighbor asking us over for a beer. I managed to keep my eyes open for a little longer and we had a chance to meet the family. These people just had a baby and asked Ben to be a god father.

Wednesday & Thursday, Oct 15 - 16 - Travel to Das Marinas, Cavite

I left my house at about 8am local time, flew from South Bend to Chicago to Hong Kong and to Manila, arriving in Manila about midnight local time on Thursday (noon back home). Ben met me at the Manila airport and we caught cab and jeepney back to his apartment, arriving there at about 2am.

Jeepneys are one of the cool things about Philippines. They are everywhere. They are a privately-owned bus. They follow a specific route back and forth across a section of a town. You flag it down, jump in the back, pass your payment up to the driver, and jump out when you get to your destination. Each Jeepney is pimped out with horns and lights and extraneous sheet metal fins and wings. Some even have one or more windshield wipers. Each has a name. They belch a smelly diesel exhaust.

Of course after 30 hours on the road, I'm pretty much exhausted. Ben and I crash and wake up the next morning about 8am.

Thursday, October 16, 2008

Hong Kong

Twenty hours after leaving home and 15 hours on one plane I landed in Hong Kong. Local time is 7:17pm, but that is 12 hours ahead of my body. My body is telling me it is time to wake up, although I didn't sleep much on the plane. I feel a little groggy. I have a couple hours before boarding the final 2-hour leg to Manila.

The layover time in HK is too short to leave the airport, which is big and very modern and exudes wealth. The air outside, while it was still light, was quite hazy.

Tuesday, October 14, 2008

Monday and Tuesday, October 13 & 14 - Pre-trip trip

Part of what made this trip more difficult to prepare for was that I had agreed to speak at a conference in near Boston on Tuesday morning. I flew out the day before, gave my presentation, and left immediately after to catch a flight home. The trip became more difficult when I arrived for my outbound flight and discovered that my drivers license had expired. Fortunately I am a middle-aged white guy, and my name is not Yooseff or Manuel or Jamal and I was not above taking advantage of white privilege. I arrived home about 7:30pm Tuesday and finished packing.

Don't leave home without it...

I learned this week that it is ok to leave home without a visa card, but you darn well better have an unexpired driver's license and failing that your passport. Failing that it is a good idea to have a key hidden so your pastor doesn't have to break a window to get into your house to find your passport so he can fax the inside cover information to you so you can show it to TSA in hopes that they'll let you on the plane for the return flight. You don't need visa because the cabbie will accept amex since you can't rent a car without a valid driver's license.

Does it sound like I had an interesting trip to Boston?

With all that I made it home - on time - and with a minimum of hassle. All is well.

I'm packed and leaving at 8am for South Bend to Chicago to Hong Kong to Manilla. Imagine me landing Thursday at noon in Manila, except it will be midnight local time with a 1 - 2 hour jeepney ride to #1 Son's house, and I will tell you when it is all said and done whether it really is not that far, right?

Friday, October 10, 2008

Harvest...

In a couple days I leave until almost the end of October and I figure we will get a frost before I get home. So tonight after work I went through the garden and pulled in the obvious stuff: sweet and hot peppers, beans, a small handful of peas, basil and a couple of sorry looking tomatoes.

What you don't see in the photo are the three batches of pesto that I made for supper and the freezer. Putting a little summer in safe place. I love biting into pesto and getting bit back by the fresh garlic. A little glass of wine and everyone is happy.

I'm trying to decide if I'm going to try and overwinter the rosemary plant. What I'm reading on line is that I might as well pot it and see what happens. In the weeks before dad died he was on a mission to grow a rosemary plant and keep it going. He had tried a couple of years and been unsuccessful. The weekend he died Mom, Joe, Leena and I drove out south of Bristol to a greenhouse kept by a friend of his and bought a healthy-looking plant (or tried to buy - when the woman heard why we were there she wouldn't take anything for it). L and I took it home for the winter and promptly killed it.

I'm on track to be ready to leave next week for Philippines. I'm really happy and excited about going - looking forward to seeing #1 son and this world he's been living in. I have a bunch of yard work to take care of before I go, and it looks like the weather will cooperate.

Here is a photo of my traveling companions last weekend in Dubuque, visiting my aunt.

Wednesday, October 08, 2008

Old news...

A friend sent me the following flow chart from Aden Nak's blog. It is just about the funniest thing I've seen in a while.



I'm relieved that I'm not the only person on the planet on a rant about Sarah Palin. Buried in today's post, and referring to last night's debate, is this comment:
To be blunt, this debate really didn’t matter all that much. The debate that mattered took place last Thursday. That was the true referendum on John McCain as a candidate and what sort of judgment he would exercise if given free reign. The crap-tastrophe that is Vice Presidential candidate Sarah Palin will weigh more heavily around McCain’s neck than anything he could have said tonight, or anything he could have gotten Obama to say.
In other news, I spent last weekend in Dubuque visiting my aunt. I forget how pretty that part of the country is until I get there. Of course it didn't hurt that it was one of those gorgeous fall days where there is no place you'd rather be than in the midwest.

I'm busy preparing for my next big trip. Monday I fly to Boston to give a presentation at a conference. I return Tuesday night, then hop a plane for Minila on Wednesday morning. I'll be gone for nearly 2 weeks. I'll try to post while I'm gone, but I expect Internet connections will be sparse.

Friday, October 03, 2008

Voter education...

Tonight I'm completing my absentee ballot.

I should have poured a glass of wine.

A large glass.

The top offices are easy. My mind was made up a long time ago.

But then you get down to State Representative District 49, and County Council At-Large (vote for no more than three), and should Justice Randall T. Shepard be retained in office?

Of course I do what I always do: Google.

I found links to a couple of videos for Justice Randall T. Shepard. In the first, Justice Separd seemed a little clueless facing an Earnest Interviewer. In this one, I decided anybody with this sense of humor should stay in his job. Shepard is the guy asking for help. How they can stretch this out for four and a half minutes is remarkable.

Thursday, October 02, 2008

Bull shit tracker...

I can't stand watching the debates, but there are some great resources on line. Check out this live fact checker from the WP. And then, if you are watching the debate, you ought to at least have fun with it. Check out this innovative bingo game. Don't these people have anything better to do?

Hmmmm...

How should I vote?

McBush?

I'm planning to be out of town on November 4, so I requested an absentee ballot. It arrived today.

Maybe I should pour a glass of wine and ponder my choices.

It will need to either be a very small glass of wine, or I will need to drink it very fast.

Wednesday, October 01, 2008

Dusting off Roosevelt...

With all the turmoil in the financial and political markets these days, I'm not surprised to see FDR dusted off and quoted.

Comments from his 1932 campaign are being trotted out, presumably as justification for ramming through the $700 Billion bail out.
The "mirage" of American economic invulnerability has vanished, along with "much of the savings of thrifty and prudent men and women...

We need to correct, by drastic means if necessary, the faults in our economic system from which we now suffer...

The country needs and - unless I mistake its temper - the country demands bold, persistent experimentation. It is common sense to take a method and try it: If it fails, admit it frankly and try another. But above all, try something."
I once heard it said that FDR's genius was not that he got it right, but that he was willing (based on the advice of a broad, diverse group of experts) to try. And if that failed, to try something else.

What a contrast to what we've had the last 8 years: get advice from a diverse group of experts, and readily admit to failure and try something else. We've had 'My way or the highway' and 'If you question me you're not a true american' and 'Leadership is persevering with your original vision because it is right, even when everyone else says it is wrong.'

I also want to point out that this speech was made in May 1932, three years into the Great Depression, not prior to the 1929 crash.

The Barn Owls have been doing a little of their own dusting off, reviving a song that came out a week after the 1936 election:
Just hand me my old Martin for soon I will be startin'
Back to dear old Charleston far away
Since Roosevelt's been re-elected, we'll not be neglected
We've got Franklin D. Roosevelt back again
Back again, back again
We've got Franklin D. Roosevelt back again
Since Roosevelt's been re-elected
Moon liquor's been corrected
We've got legal wine, whiskey, beer and gin

I'll take a drink of brandy and let myself be handy
Good old times are coming back again
You can laugh and tell a joke, you can dance and drink and smoke
We've got Franklin D. Roosevelt back again
Back again, back again
We've got Franklin D. Roosevelt back again
We'll have money in our jeans
We can travel with the queen
We've got Franklin D. Roosevelt back again

No more breadlines, we're happy to say the donkey won election day
No more standing in the blowing, snowing rain
He's got things in full swing, we're all working and getting our pay
We've got Franklin D. Roosevelt back again
Back again, back again
We've got Franklin D. Roosevelt back again
Since Roosevelt's been re-elected
Moon liquor's been corrected
We've got Franklin D. Roosevelt back again

Bev usually introduces it with "Go Dems!"